The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn has had a long and troubled past- it wasn't long ago that there was no access and climbing was totally banned. Now thanks to the efforts of Volunteers and Officers the situation has improved and the situation is better than its been for years.
The Behaviour of climbers when visiting the crag is crucial to this situation continuing and improving.
The ownership of the crag varies along its length and more information can be found below, however its safe to assume that climbing is tolerated and is NOT a right. If you climb here, please do so quietly and inconspicuously as possible.
- CENTRAL SECTION- (Great Wall, etc.) From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze. There are new owners and negotiations are underway. While some low level climbing activity appears to be ongoing without any objection, the landowners are very clear that they do not formally give permisson for climbing here and any issues will put a stop to any long term solutions to allow climbing.
- RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, the occupiers of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2019) . The new occupiers of this section have told the BMC that they will not object to climbers on this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum. Tthere is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the whole cliff is an SSSI it would be illegal to do without formal consent from NRW.
- LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
- Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.
- Do not park below the crag - access should only be form the agreed parking area above the crag. Follow access instructions in the current editon of North Wales Limestone guidebook (or see below).
Parking and Approach
Do not park on the verges or in front of houses onTrawscoed Road or anywhere on Isallt Road (the road below the crag). The correct parking is located at a hairpin bend, along a narrow single track lane that becomes a track, leading off Trawscoed Road. Go through the left hand gate into the field. Park on the grass on the left-hand up-hill side (not on downside above slope to crag) OS Grid 902(5) 764(5) if it is too boggy it would be fine to park a couple of vehicles on the main track in the field. Don't worry about blocking the farmer's access as Bob Jones (the land owner) says he will be able to get around if required on his quad or 4 wheel-drive. He told the BMC Cymru Officer that he is very thankful that we (climbers) don't leave litter. IT'S IMPERATIVE THAT THE GATE IS KEPT SECURELY SHUT AT ALL TIMES - PLEASE ENSURE IT'S FULLY LATCHED EACH TIME!
From the A547 (Abergele Road):
Drive as you would do to get to Castle Inn quarry but do not turn down the lane to Castle Inn. Instead carry on past the Semaphore Inn and the school. At a grassed area turn left onto Trawscoed road. Saves driving down the lane.
Accessing the crag from the agreed parking is easy and convenient - walk from down the inclined field and head for a stile in the right hand corner. This will take you directly into the left hand sections of the crag.