Oak Crag

North York Moors

On the east side of Farndale overlooking Oak Crag House on the road below. North Buttress provides the cleanest and most reliable rock. Blakey Buttress suffers from vegetation and debris from above. Oak Buttress is loose, possibly unstable and requires caution.

Crag information
Climbing Area: North East Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Estate No. of Routes: 22
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1956
Grid Reference: SE684962

The crags enjoy a fine aspect and North Buttress can provide a few hours of quality climbing. The routes are not long but there are a few excellent lines across the grades. In dry weather ledges and holds can become dusty and heathery topouts are an additional challenge.

Due to ground nesting birds the land owners have been granted a 5 year dog ban.

There are few reliable anchors and any stakes should be treat with caution.

Bracken can be an issue in summer including obscuring a number of holes and drops around the crags.

Parking and Approach

There is roadside verge parking 3.5km south of The Lion Inn, Blakey on the Castleton to Hutton-le-Hole road (SE689961) where a line of grouse butts crosses the moor (NB This is the second line of grouse butts when travelling from The Lion Inn). Follow a path W across the moor to the left of a line of grouse butts. At the sixth butt, head right / NW to reach the North Buttress area. Distance to crag approx 500m.

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.

 No Dogs (except guide, hearing or assistance dogs)

Group Advice

Lack of reliable anchors makes this crag unsuitable for group use.

Area information

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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