Wintour's Leap

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

Long line of west-facing crags above the Wye, rising to nearly 100 metres. Mostly quarried in the past. Mixed ethic; mainly trad but some sport. The land above the crag contains a number of private gardens.

July 2018 Update  - Woodcroft Quarry

The owners of Woodcroft Quarry have put up new fencing and barbed wire to attempt to stop people accessing the quarry.  At least one pair of climbers have also been asked to leave the quarry. The background to this is that although there is an agreement with the Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust which allows climbing on Wintour's Leap from GO Wall to North Wall, no such agreement exists for the privately-owned quarry (or indeed Fly Wall) and there have previously been attempts to enforce a ban on climbing in the quarry.  One further issue (which may well have prompted the latest action)  is that in the last couple of years there has been an increasing incidence of anti-social behaviour from non-climbers in the quarry. At present there is no direct access from the top - of course, this does not prevent access using any of the other entry points for Wintour's Leap.  In the meantime please do NOT attempt to circumvent the new barrier by trespassing onto the garden or driveway of the house immediately to the left of the quarry entrance - the owner of this house is very reasonable and has been well-disposed to climbers.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 352
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1958
Grid Reference: ST540962

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners do not allow climbing on this section of crag. If you do climb here, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall are privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Restrictions apply from 15 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines nest on the far right of Fly Wall and the restriction applies to all routes to the right of Dragonfly, including Big Fly Direct and Jos'e and the Fly.

Group Advice

Generally unsuitable.

Area information

Weather Information

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