Wintour's Leap & Woodcroft Quarry

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

Long line of west-facing crags above the Wye, rising to nearly 100 metres. Mostly quarried in the past. Mixed ethic; mainly trad but some sport. The land above the crag contains a number of private gardens.

Huge amounts of work has been carried out by volonteers druring the 2022/2023 season. Pegs have been replaced throughout the crag, most of the easy routes have been re-equiped (up to E2) and some of the popular harder ones. If you would like to climb any less popular route that has't been done and you'd like to replace the pegs, gear is available so please contact the access rep for more info.



Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 352
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1958
Grid Reference: ST54169615

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 15 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)


NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.

Parking and Approach

Please use the parking on Lancaut Lane as a first preference if space is available. If this is full, and the roadside in the village is already filling with cars, please consider driving south towards Tutshill where there are fewer houses and less pressure. Wherever you park, avoid parking on the pavement and never block driveways. 

The vandalised combination lock on the gated entrance to Woodcroft Quarry/Fly Wall has now been repaced and details of how to use it can be found here

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Anonymous User
Fly Wall and the quarry are OK to use according to other climbers we met there yesterday...who shared the access code for the gate at the top of the quarry
Anonymous User
The gate lock is still not rectified. Gained access, but is now sticking. Needs sorting asap
Anonymous User
Visited 8 Feb 2020 and found the gate keypad in good working order :)
Anonymous User
Lovely day on the shunt keeping our 2 metres apart. Spoilt only by the mindless twats that have vandalised the gate. Also came across the waste bin half way down the crag that was at the view point. Same nobs no doubt.
Anonymous User
Visited on 21 December 1921: the lock is loose although it still appears to work OK
Anonymous User
Loose right anchor bolts on Killing em Jones 6a
Anonymous User
The app won't allow the last step to access the combination lock code. I've just spent 20 minutes trying. NOT HAPPY.
Anonymous User
Access gate at Woodcroft/Fly wall area. For what it's worth, I've added a comment here because as many of us as possible need to bring it to the BMC's attention. If us climbers are not careful, we will lose access to the gate or worse still access to the crags. The mindless scrotes have vandalised the access gate to such an extent, we are in danger of losing it as it will be the easiest option to stop it. I have notified the BMC, but as yet have not had a response.
Anonymous User
Gate fencing completely ripped out and code not working
Anonymous User
The gate is still ripped out, no need for padlock access code. Also ticks quite prevalent in the quarry.