North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through the garden is no longer possible. This does not affect climbing up to the Great Ledge where decents can be made from the bolted abseil stations above The Tap and Joe's Route. For the time being, the only pitch above the Great Ledge which is possible is the finish to Right Hand Route which has a rope sling and ring around a tree below the top to abseil from. Please do not attempt to top out on any routes. It is hoped that additional pitches above the Great Ledge may be made possible in future if agreement can be obtained from the landowner and BMC South West Area to add one or two boltede abseil station to make alternative abseils possible.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners do not allow climbing on this section of crag. If you do climb here, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and climbing is prohibited.
Restrictions apply from
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes from Dragonfly rightwards (looking in), including that route.