Ban-y-gor Rocks

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

User attention

Significant rockfall has been reported from just right of the route Dabbawallah when a climber accidentally went off route and pulled off a large loose block.  Anyone climbing this line is advised to be cautious and aware of the potential for further loose rock and the resulting objective danger for both climber and belayer. from 21/08/2017 to 21/12/2017

North-facing wooded escarpment on 'back' side of Lancaut peninsula adjacent to Wintour's Leap. Mixed ethic, sport routes predominating.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 187
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1988
Grid Reference: ST544968

Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) - the landowner of Ban-y-Gor and the majority of Wintour’s Leap – have recently raised serious concerns about new routing activity and cleaning of the cliff face and base at Ban-y-Gor, particularly on the Main Cliff. Furthermore, the GWT wish to keep part of the cliff habitat free from disturbance to wildlife. A closure of the whole cliff beyond Ladder Gully - including all of the Main Cliff - for all climbing was initially requested by GWT, but we have negotiated continued access to arguably the most important part of Main Cliff - the Head Sector - and everything to the right of this, subject to the following code of conduct:

• All routes left of the Head Sector (beyond Heady Days) are temporarily banned for 2017 and this restriction will be reviewed early in 2018. A sign will be placed at the boundary of the restricted area.
• No access to the upper tier of the Main Cliff (this was already the case)
• Stick to existing paths - don't create new ones as there is sensitive habitat off the side of existing paths
• Cutting trees on the crag or elsewhere on the site is not allowed
• Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
• No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the Trust's land 
• No further new routing

Please ensure you follow this code to the letter if climbing at Ban-y-Gor. Continued future access depends on climbers demonstrating good behaviour, and the agreement will be reviewed in 2018 with potential for us to argue for increased access if the code of conduct has been followed.  

Group Advice

Generally unsuitable for group use.

Area information

Weather Information

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