Ban-y-gor Rocks

Wye Valley

North-facing wooded escarpment on 'back' side of Lancaut peninsula adjacent to Wintour's Leap. Mixed ethic, sport routes predominating.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
County Gloucestershire Access Status: Restrictions/ Sensitive Access
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 187
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1988
Grid Reference: ST544968

Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) - the landowner of Ban-y-Gor and a significant chunk of Wintour’s Leap – have recently raised serious concerns about new routing activity and cleaning of the cliff face and base around the Main Cliff. A closure of all climbing beyond Ladder Gully was initially requested by GWT, but the BMC has negotiated continued access to the most significant part of Main Cliff - the Head Sector and everything right of this, subject to the below code of conduct:

  • All routes left of the Head Sector (beyond Heady Days) are temporarily banned for 2017 and this restriction will be reviewed in 2018.
  • No access to the upper tier
  • Stick to existing paths - don't create new ones as there is sensitive habitat off the side of existing paths
  • Cutting trees on the crag or elsewhere on the site is not allowed
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires
  • No camping or bivvying anywhere on the Trust's land
  • No further new routing

Please ensure you follow this code to the letter if climbing at Ban-y-Gor. Continued access depends on climber’s demonstrating good behaviour, and the situation will be reviewed in 2018 with potential for the BMC to argue for increased access if the code of conduct has been followed.

Reason: Nesting Birds

A tawny owl appears to be nesting on the route Lounge Lizard Suite on Crawl Buttress. Please avoid this route and the two routes either side (Good Jab and Just Too Hot) for your own safety as well as the birds.

Group Advice

Generally unsuitable for group use.

Area information

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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