Eridge Green Rocks

Southern Sandstone

Most of the outcrop lies within a SSSI and nature reserve owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust and the crag holds many harder lines, although quality easy routes can still be found.

Crag information
Climbing Area: London & South East Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 228
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1942
Grid Reference: TQ555356

Climbing is allowed only on specific areas and following guidelines agreed between the Sussex Wildlife Trust and the BMC to conserve the site’s rare plants and fragile rock. Continued access for climbing relies upon all users respecting this:

• Read, understand and follow the Sandstone Code of Practice.
• Climbing is only allowed between the following routes:

  • Heffalump to Dr Kemp’s Cure inclusive
  • Sandstorm to More Cake for Me inclusive – no chalk use in this area. This area is extremely sensitive with many rare plants so be especially careful here not to damage any flora
  • Dusk Crack to Spot the Dog and the Breath of Death inclusive
  • Earthrise to Tower Girdle inclusive

• Away from the Sandstorm to More Cake for Me chalk ban, please keep chalk use to an absolute minimum as it changes the pH of this acidic habitat, damaging important plant species.
• Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds take care only to remove loose sand and debris.
• There are no bolts above any of the climbs. Although the trees are close to the edge, it is still necessary to take a static rope (12m is useful) for belays where the trees are some distance back - especially above the car park, the Fandango block and Eridge Tower.
• The rock at the top of the blocks above the car-park (Equilibrium etc.) is extremely fragile and scarred with deep rope grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings).

Parking and Approach

The main car park is off Warren Farm Lane - if this car park is full do not park on the lane as this will block access to farm machinery.

An alternative parking area is in the layby on the A26, approximately 1km south of Warren Farm Lane.

Group Advice

Climbing by organised groups is not permitted.

Area information

Follow this link for the definitive Code of Practice for climbing on southern sandstone; https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/access_conservation/southern_sandstone/ssc05_print.pdf

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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