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The Dewerstone

Dartmoor

Home of the demon Dewer, who continues to trick unsuspecting punters and throw them off the edge into the waiting jaws of his spectral hounds.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Granite
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: National Trust No. of Routes: 109
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1935
Grid Reference: SX539637

The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.

Restrictions apply from 21 April - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.  

Area information

Part of the Dartmoor National Park is used by the MoD for training and live-firing exercises. It also offers a wealth of excellent hillwalking and numerous Tors, some of which still have the potential for new climbing development – especially wild bouldering. The Defence Estates endeavour to support public access (without compromising public safety and military training) and have produced a website with the important safety info and firing times. Follow this link http://www.dartmoor-ranges.co.uk/ for the Dartmoor training area homepage and links to detailed info.

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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Anonymous User
11/06/2020
Kestrels are nesting at the tree belay at the end of pitch 1 of Armada, on Upper Raven Buttress. Please avoid climbing routes that pass close by there until the young have fledged, which they should have done by mid-September.
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Anonymous User
04/10/2021
4/10/21-
Currently is a large wasps nest on the first belay of route B
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Anonymous User
18/05/2023
There is a wagtail nesting by the peg at top of ramp on fruitflancase/gideon first pitch
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Anonymous User
30/05/2023
Wagtail nest on first ramp hanging slab to gideon and fuitflan
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    The Dewerstone

    Dartmoor