As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where
you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.
Nicely positioned trad limestone catching the evening sun - perfect for after work cragging in the summer.
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The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.
Restrictions apply from
Reason: Nesting Birds
2020 update: raven and peregrines both fledged sucessfully this year - thans once again to climbers for following the restrictions.
Raven and peregrine nest on the crag which means two different areas of restriction, each with different dates as follows:
15th March - 31st May: all routes between Cracked Edge and Solitaire
15th March - 30th June: all routes from Solitaire rightwards
During the restricted dates, climbers should approach the crag using the lower (left hand) branch of the approach path as this route avoids walking directly below Raven Buttress. This left hand branch is a bit hard to spot as it clearly hasn't been used much recently, but it branches off the main path at a small cairn approx 30-40m from the toe of Raven Buttress and stays in the trees. Please make sure you move quickly and quietly along the path.
Whilst climbing please avoid staying at the top of the crag once you have topped out and instead descend to the base as quickly as possible. The only walking descent that should be used during the restriction is the gully on the left side of the ‘Left End’ crag but for several routes it may be possible to abseil directly back to the bottom which is the quickest and best option.
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag