Turning Stone Edge

Southern Gritstone

Hidden away on a rhododendron cloaked hillside the edge provides good climbing in an away-from-it-all location. Generally very good quality grit with the occasional friable hold, usually on overhangs. Each buttress has its own character, from the giant roof of 'Happy Landings', the overhung Sugar Loaf Buttress, to the blade like arete of 'Master of Suspense'. Lots of overhanging thuggishness, but this is interspersed with touches of delicacy and not all E-numbers - VS to HVS climbers will also find a number of classics.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Gritstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 94
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1960
Grid Reference: SK343619

Access issues have recently been raised by the new landower who is concerned about the land above the crag being frequently used for raves, as well as gardening without his permision by climbers. Please do not remove any vegetation when visiting the crag.

Please do not park opposite Old Engine Farm or block any gates. The venue is not suitable for club meets or group excursions. Discussions are ongoing with the landowner (who lives at Old Engine Farm - opposite the parking).

Parking and Approach

Please do not park directly opposite Old Engine Farm.  Limited parking is available on Holestone Gate Road but it is crucial that any cars are well parked (avoiding blocking the road or gates) so not to cause problems for local farmers and residents. 

A public footpath leads from the parking, across the field and around the right side of the copse (not through the middle) and from here diagonally to the far right corner of the field.

Area information

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