Yorkshire Gritstone

A large roof split in two by a wide central crack. although there a a couple of easier problems, the problems really start at f7a all the way through to f8b. A fantastic venue for an evening but it's only small, however the problems are second to none. Quite a few problems put up since/not included in the new YMC guide.


Crag information
Climbing Area: Yorkshire Rock Type: Gritstone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 20
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SE1851065072

In Feb 2018 a 'no climbing' sign was installed on the crag and the majority of holds were hammered off by persons unknown. This is likely to have been in response to poor behaviour by climbers and has probably left the rock in such a poor state that future climbing will not be possible or desirable, even if access could be negotiated.

This should be taken as a wake up call by all climbers that frequently overlooked practices like considerate parking, being polite and courteous to local people, closing gates behind you and avoiding crags like this (which are close to houses) for lantern sessions are more important than ever in maintaining access to climbing venues. 

Parking and Approach

Park in the layby just up the road from Cliff Farm and walk back to the gate opposite the farm (public footpath, not sign posted), and follow your nose down and round to the left. Do not park by the gate.

There have been access issues in the past and there are a number of things which are critical to making sure the farmer doesn’t get annoyed with climbers (more so than he has been) & banning access completely:

1. Close the gate
2. No lamp sessions 
3. DO NOT park near the gate. Use the layby.
4: Other leave it as you find it considerations & general crag etiquette.

Group Advice

Please keep groups to a sensible size. If the parking is full walk a bit further or go elsewhere.
Area information

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Sadly no more 😕 https://www.thebmc.co.uk/whitehouses-bouldering-crag-damage-banned