As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where
you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.
Smalldale attracts a loyal following from climbers who can tell quality. Tall, leaning walls with long sport routes predominantly in the F6 and low F7 range along with the odd trad line, on lovely featured limestone.
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The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.
Restrictions apply from
Reason: Nesting Birds
2021 Update: The Ravens have fledged and the restriction has been lifted early (11/5/21). Thank you for your help.
There are Ravens nesting on Going Straight Wall. Please avoid all routes from "Stone the Crows" to "Single Decker".
Parking and Approach
Access to the crag has changed since the last BMC guidebook was published. Park as before on verge of the tarmac road leading to the brick factory, not on the gravel track leading into the lorry park/quarry.
From the parking, walk south along the road from Smalldale to the start of the gravel track that used to be followed into the quarry - this is no longer the approach. Instead take the small path that starts at the entrance to the gravel track and lead through the trees to the base of Going Straight Wall.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag