COVID-19

As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.

Smalldale Quarry

Peak Limestone

Smalldale attracts a loyal following from climbers who can tell quality. Tall, leaning walls with long  sport routes predominantly in the F6 and low F7 range along with the odd trad line, on lovely featured limestone. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 61
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1985
Grid Reference: SK09647703

The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.

Restrictions apply from 26 April - 11 May.

Reason: Nesting Birds

2021 Update: The Ravens have fledged and the restriction has been lifted early (11/5/21). Thank you for your help.

There are Ravens nesting on Going Straight Wall. Please avoid all routes from "Stone the Crows" to "Single Decker".

Parking and Approach

Access to the crag has changed since the last BMC guidebook was published. Park as before on verge of the tarmac road leading to the brick factory, not on the gravel track leading into the lorry park/quarry.

From the parking, walk south along the road from Smalldale to the start of the gravel track that used to be followed into the quarry - this is no longer the approach. Instead take the small path that starts at the entrance to the gravel track and lead through the trees to the base of Going Straight Wall.

Area information

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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Anonymous User
16/06/2020
New access route: On Sunday 14th June, we were very politely asked not to access the crag through the brickworks. We were directed to a vague path through the trees that begins at a gate directly behind the bend in the wall at the entrance to the brickworks. The track brings you to Going Straight Wall, and I noticed a new Private Property sign by Getafix Wall at the point where you would have entered if walking through the brickworks, so leave the way came in. Absolutely no problems climbing, just a new route to the crag.
Anonymous User
17/06/2020
June 2020:
Kestrels nesting on RHS of 'Going Straight Wall.'
Please avoid climbing routes to the right of 'Friend 15 - f6a+' to minimise disturbance.