Shorn Cliff

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

User attention

A report has been made of significant rockfall around Tiger Bay, possibly from Pump it up Again, Renaissance or Bubble Memory. There is now a large quantity of rubble around the base of the crag, which could threaten the approach path below if destabilised. There may also be further loose blocks left on the crag so caution is advised if walking below this area or attempting routes in Tiger Bay. from 11/02/2020

A fantastic natural limestone crag with a real 'away from it all' feel, set in the woods above Tintern with a plethora of good quality single pitch routes up to 30m long, often on very good quality pocketed limestone.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Forestry Commission No. of Routes: 174
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: ST543992

The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes.

Parking and Approach

Park at Tintern Abbey (pay and display) and follow a footpath along the river (behind the Anchor Inn) and through the village until a wide foot bridge allows crossing of the river. Continue along the footpath, turning left up a steep section into the woods at the upright metal posts. Take the right hand option at the next two path junctions and the path leads through the woods to eventually join a wide forestry track. Turn right down this for a few huindred metres to where the first of a series of signs indicate the approaches to different sections of the crag:

  • R4: Abbey Buttress (path leads directly to the base of Tigers Don't Cry)
  • R3a: Great Central Cave area
  • R3: Fallacy Buttress
  • R2: The White Towers
  • R1: Hit and Run Buttress

Alternative approaches can be made from a parking area off the B4228, 2 miles north of Woodcroft (the same parking as for Tintern Quarry), or on foot from Beeches Farm campsite. 

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