As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where
you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.
Recent rebolting (initiated by Adrian Berry and funded by the South Wales Mountaineering Club) has made the crag a top spot for thuggish sport climbers. It is an especially useful winter and evening crag because it dries fairly quickly in the afternoon and is only a stones throw from Swansea town.The left hand part of the crag is non-tidal. There is much variation between the routes, but generally, they get steeper to the left, culminating in the extremely overhanging ''Rampage''. The cliff also becomes more blocky and loose looking the further left you travel, however, the looseness is restricted to areas between the routes and the established climbs have all been well trundled.The right hand part of the crag extends from ''Rain Dance'' onwards. All the routes follow a similar theme of; an initial steep, wave-washed wall capped by a very wide roof, the main difficulties involve breaching the roof and pulling onto the delightfully rough slab above. This part of the crag is tidal.
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Parking and Approach
A quicker approach for locals is from the clifftop path from Rotherslade. Visitors should follow the B4433 through Mumbles to park at the Limeslade bay. This is just west of the Mumbles headland (GR627872), it has a small ice cream parlour/cafe above it. Walk west along the coastal path for about 500m until it starts to climb up some steps. The top of the steps is are directly above the crag. Descent to the crag is either down the west (right when facing seaward) side of the bay on a steep path, or by abseiling down on from stakes above the east side.
Gower offers excellent sea cliff climbing with relatively few access restrictions. The National Trust owns a large part of the coastline and Natural Rescource Wales (NRW) also actively manages certain areas of particular landscape or ecological interest. The history of climbing in the region goes back to 1949.
Some cliff, notably Pwll Du, Pennard and Gravesend are home to the nationally rare plant Yellow Whitlow Grass (Draba aizodes). This plant is found on the broken scree and rocks on top of the cliffs and is easily damaged by trampling. Climbers should take care to identify this plant and avoid any route cleaning or vegetation clearance in these reas.
Some cliffs have seasonal access restrictions to protect nesting seabirds which are reviewed on a regular basis and will be lifted if birds are not nesting. For details of the Yellow Wall restriction please contact the National Trust (Tel: 01792 390636) or the BMC Access Rep.
Gower is covered by a fixed equipment agreement reached after lengthy discussion at several open meetings in 1999 and 2000 and more recently in 2011, which covers all of the limestone and sandstone crags in SE Wales. There have been problems in recent years relating to the development of crags in sensitive areas and climbers should carefully consider the potential implications of new routing activities before embarking on new route campaigns.
Please refer to specific crag entries on the RAD for further information.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag