Penmaen Head

Northern Limestone (Inland)

An easily accessed venue featuring natural limestone. The complex offers good quality, well bolted and enjoyable climbing with a decent mix of grades but would mainly suit those operating in the F6's. The routes start from a flat base and have full lower-offs. 

Many of the routes here are steeper and better quality than they initially appear. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 68
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 2007
Grid Reference: SH 87929 78616

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

Parking and Approach

From the A55, take the junction 22 slip-road towards Old Colwyn. Turn right under the expressway and then left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas /Abergele (A547).Stay on this main road and just before the top of the hill turn into the layby on the left to park by an apartment complex. Approach the crag down the steps. 

The parking area/layby above the crag now has limited parking to maximum 4 hours and no return within an hour. 

Group Advice

The new owner has made us aware that he's not happy with commercial groups. Its worth either pursuing  permissions or avoiding the crag for the time being. 

Area information

This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as many other sports crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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Anonymous User
Parking has a 4 hour max restriction on it but unsure how strictly it is enforced.
Anonymous User
There is a Jackdaw nesting on Aphelion 6a+. 19/5/18
Anonymous User
There is a Jackdaw nesting on Aphelion 6a+ 19/5/18
Anonymous User
area around flowstone shuffle is a nesting jackdaw . we stayed away, but were still mobbed by it at the top of routes.