Access situation currently unknown. The UKC website has been contacted to say no climbing allowed. The quarry and surrounds are the subject of a dispute over future use as a landfill site. Remain polite at all times.
The quarry is buried in some trees just off the path and so does not get copious amounts of sun despite its aspect. Tends to seep after heavy rain and the trees can hold the moisture in after rain. Due to its low popularity some routes need cleaning. The lower grade routes are generally good but unprotected, with the best routes being the top end graded routes. Some of the lower graded routes may be loose. Best route: "A Worthwhile Pastime - But a Sad Ambition" (E5 6c, was A2) with a monster crux above a rotten old peg that hardly holds body weight. The two sport routes are among the best in the quarry and there is plenty of scope for bouldering at low level and on the smaller walls with a mat. Dont forget insect repellent in summer. It is definitely recommended to take a brush as some routes need cleaning. Trees at the top may provide anchors, making top roping an option.
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The access situation is currently unclear. The UKC website was contacted by an agent of the landowner to say "no climbing allowed". The agent was advised to contact the BMC but has not responded to further contact from UKC. Climbs are recorded for historical purposes. The quarry or possibly just the surrounding area between the climbing and the main road are the subject of a dispute over future use as a landfill site. There is no right of access to this crag. Remain polite at all times.
Parking and Approach
Easy to find, about 400m from the main road on the only path. Access is unclear, there are no entry signs but the area seems to be used by local families and quarrying has long finished. Layby parking by brow of hill.
Guidebook info currently being updated
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