Morlais Quarries

South East Wales

Routes up to 33m. Popular with teaching groups (you are warned). A fine selection of routes, including Phobia (E1 5b), To The Batmoblie(HVS 5b) and a prime first lead Massascent Groove (VD). Also a wide range of bouldering on lower tier.There is even a few Highball boulder problems like Harry The Spiders Comeing Out Party (E3)

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 112
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SO047098

This site is on private land (Merthyr Golf Club?) and access for climbing appears to be tolerated. The land on which the crags are located is not mapped or designated as open access land. 

Parking and Approach

From the A465 head for a T junction (OS ref ST 049 092) where a track joins an unclassed road. Over the road a gate takes an old tram road running N along the hillside. Follow this for 5 mins.Be aware that cars parked here are subject to vandalism, breakins etc as the broken windscreen on the road will testify. It's best to park down the road next to the pub and walk in from there.Or (from the SW or N): leave A470 or A465, join road along Taf Fechan valley. Follow for 2.5mi to the Aberglais pub, continue 200m uphill to Pont sarn pub. Park in car park opposite.Descend to disused railway line and cross viaduct, and up steep bank to middle of quarry.Empty your car - there have been many thefts.

CRoW Information

Not on open acces land. 
Area information

A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons. To Donate to the South Wales Bolt Fund Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-

Weather Information

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