A pleasant and popular cliff, especially in winter when it dries very quickly. Routes are around 100ft and there are both single and multi pitch routes available. Classic slab routes are Diamond Rib (HS), Median (HVS 5a) technical but potentially well protected, Nervous Laughter (E1 5b), and the Meadfoot Girdle (E2) - sustained and a good line, but please climb it only when the the cliff is quiet.
Climbing Area:
South West & Southern
Rock Type:
Limestone
Importance:
Local
CRoW Land:
No
Ownership:
Unknown
No. of Routes:
28
Within National Park:
No
Year Developed:
Grid Reference:
SX9277962854
Many trees have been felled at the top of the crag so previous tree belays are now stumps - some are usable, some are poor. Consider bringing an extra rope to build your belays from the remaining trees further back from the edge of the quarry.
Parking and Approach
From Daddyhole Plain car park, follow a path left (facing out to sea) down some concrete steps. Turn right and follow a muddy path through a wood until you reach a fence on the right. Pass right of this to reach the topout of Median and follow zig-zag paths to the quarry floor or continue on the main path until you reach a viewing area and another easy decent path from there. Although the quarry is non-tidal there are enjoyable sea-level traverses starting from Meadfoot which can be climbed at any state of tide but increase in difficulty as the water rises.
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