Back

Holyhead Mountain

Gogarth Area

A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Quartzite
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 133
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SH21908281

Restrictions apply from 1 February - 31 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a nest pair of Coughs 2m right of the Grip, please stay clear of this area until the chicks have fledged. 

Parking and Approach

Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

Area information

Gogarth's seacliffs contain some of the most important breeding seabird colonies in Europe. It is important climbers continue contributing towards their protection by observing the negotiated nesting restrictions which apply to a number of cliffs. Most of the area is managed by the RSPB as an internationally important bird reserve and the arrangements here are often cited as best exemplars of how climbing and conservation can co-exist. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. The range of cliffs include Gogarth Bay, South Stack, The Range as well as other outlying crags along the Anglesey coast.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

Report a page issue Print this article

Crag Update Feed

Use this feed to update other users about crag conditions or similar current information. Suggested updates to page information should be made using the ‘report a page issue’ button above.

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?

Report a page issue

Please use this feedback form to raise any incorrect information on the page, advise any additonal information that should be included, or any page functionality issues.
Immediate crag updates should be submitted via the comments section at the bottom of the crag page. Any comments made through the page issue form will need to be moderated and will not be dealt with immediately.

    Holyhead Mountain

    Gogarth Area