Scugdale

North York Moors

Top quality venue in a beautiful valley with a great collection of south facing, quick-drying crags & boulders, some only 10mins from the road.

Crag information
Climbing Area: North East Rock Type: Sandstone
County North Yorkshire Access Status: Advice
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 255
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1930
Grid Reference: NZ522002

Due to ground nesting birds, the landowners have been granted a CRoW Act restriction to ensure dogs are kept on a short lead at all times throughout the year. Most of the crag is also on the North York Moors SSSI.

Scot crags are the most popular with a wide range of grades. Locals solo many of the routes but many justify a rope. The sandstone is quite soft so care is required especially if wet.

Barkers is quieter and has experienced less wear to its many quality routes. The buttresses are more dispersed than on Scots and movement between is easier from above.

Stoney Wickes rarely exceeds 3m in height and provides a superb soloing venue with a pleasant SW facing aspect.

Snotterdale is not on Open Access land, it is in a wooded location and largely neglected, although contains some quality lines.

Parking and Approach

Parking can be an issue for the Scugdale crags. There is a small parking bay beneath the crags and some off road parking requiring consideration for road users. Parties should consider car sharing from Swainby village. There are alternative approaches including a moor walk from Carlton Bank. Please be aware that although the crags are on Open Access land, the path from immediately below the crags is not and is used on a permissive basis.

CRoW Information

Scot and Barkers Crags together with Stoney Wickes are all on Open Access land. The traditional approach from the parking below Scot Crag is not however on Open Access land and is by permission of the landowners. The national dog restriction, requiring dogs be kept on a short lead applies between 1st March and 31st July. Further dog restrictions apply for the remainder of the year ie 1st August to 1st March but very unusually the restriction is not a total ban as on most other managed grouse moors. Negotiated by the National Park access team, the landowners acknowledge that some climbers may wish to be accompanied by their dogs and consented to dogs remaining on a short lead in a legally binding restriction. In summary this means that dogs at Scugdale are required to be on a short lead throughout the year and climbers are requested to comply with this so as to avoid the more usual total ban being applied for.

On Open Access land. See map here; http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/ourwork/enjoying/places/openaccess/default.aspx

Group Advice

Park minibuses so that other climbers can also park.

Please be mindful of the impact of top-roping etc on the soft sandstone rock.

As for all visitors, please ensure that the Country Code is followed, especially in respect to litter, stiles and walls.

Area information

Weather Information

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