As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where
you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.
Mostly short (up to 18m) routes, but some longer routes (with one 73m multi-pitch VD) on the Great Tor, which lies inland. Many of the routes are easy, sub-E1, rising from the beach. Working out which routes is which can be hard on some of the sea faces - they look identical and have the same grade.
The (very rarely if ever!) climbed routes on the south face should be avoided from March 1st until July 31st due to nesting Peregrines.
||No. of Routes:
|Within National Park:
Restrictions apply from
Reason: Nesting Birds
Only applies to the routes on the rarely climbed and loose south face.
Parking and Approach
Tidal on most routes. The tide comes in very fast - it's a flat beach - so ensure your belayer can move quickly, or you can. Accessible three hours either side of low tide.From Penmaen, park on the A4118 near the Post Office and village store. Path E, fork R, to find the back of Great Tor. From Three Cliffs Bay, walk around the headland at low tide, or over the clifftops at higher times.Currently a pair of peregrines nesting by the second belay on East Ridge (26/04/15)
Gower offers excellent sea cliff climbing with relatively few access restrictions. The National Trust owns a large part of the coastline and Natural Rescource Wales (NRW) also actively manages certain areas of particular landscape or ecological interest. The history of climbing in the region goes back to 1949.
Some cliff, notably Pwll Du, Pennard and Gravesend are home to the nationally rare plant Yellow Whitlow Grass (Draba aizodes). This plant is found on the broken scree and rocks on top of the cliffs and is easily damaged by trampling. Climbers should take care to identify this plant and avoid any route cleaning or vegetation clearance in these reas.
Some cliffs have seasonal access restrictions to protect nesting seabirds which are reviewed on a regular basis and will be lifted if birds are not nesting. For details of the Yellow Wall restriction please contact the National Trust (Tel: 01792 390636) or the BMC Access Rep.
Gower is covered by a fixed equipment agreement reached after lengthy discussion at several open meetings in 1999 and 2000 and more recently in 2011, which covers all of the limestone and sandstone crags in SE Wales. There have been problems in recent years relating to the development of crags in sensitive areas and climbers should carefully consider the potential implications of new routing activities before embarking on new route campaigns.
Please refer to specific crag entries on the RAD for further information.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag