Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular route rather than spend a whole day and more often than not it is Moyer's Buttress that is top of the hit list. This is indeed a great classic, however there are plenty more worthwhile offerings spread about amongst the buttresses and those who are prepared to pick and choose their base of operations will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. By a quirk of nature the crag excels at the grade E3 5c with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset all being great examples of the grade. The climbing they offer tends to be both delicate and strenuous, often with barely adequate and thought-provoking protection. With the exception of the climbs around Apple Buttress area it is rare to have company on the edge, though in many ways this adds to the appeal since it makes a nice change from the circus atmosphere at the popular end of Stanage and on Froggatt.
Lots of good bouldering. As well as popular circuits concentrated around the opposite ends of the crag there are many fine problems dotted along the whole length of the crag.
Climbing Area:
Peak District
Rock Type:
Gritstone
Importance:
Local
CRoW Land:
No
Ownership:
Unknown
No. of Routes:
400
Within National Park:
Yes
Year Developed:
Grid Reference:
SK271731
Restrictions apply from
15 February
-
31 May.
Reason: Nesting Birds
2023 26th February update: The Ravens do not appear to be using the existing nest in Gardoms Unconquerable - however one more check will be made in case they are late starting, so please be observant and report any sightings if you are in the area.
In recent years a Tawny Owl has nested in the Layback Crack/Flake Crack.area - it is not known if they are present in 2023 but please keep your eyes and ears out if climbing in this area.
Parking and Approach
Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the LH end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.Alt. to gain the rh end of the edge approach in 15 min. along footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).
CRoW Information
Gardoms is not CRoW
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag