Gardoms Edge

Eastern Gritstone

Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular route rather than spend a whole day and more often than not it is Moyer's Buttress that is top of the hit list. This is indeed a great classic, however there are plenty more worthwhile offerings spread about amongst the buttresses and those who are prepared to pick and choose their base of operations will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. By a quirk of nature the crag excels at the grade E3 5c with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset all being great examples of the grade. The climbing they offer tends to be both delicate and strenuous, often with barely adequate and thought-provoking protection. With the exception of the climbs around Apple Buttress area it is rare to have company on the edge, though in many ways this adds to the appeal since it makes a nice change from the circus atmosphere at the popular end of Stanage and on Froggatt.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Gritstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 350
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SK271731

Restrictions apply from 26 February - 7 May.

Reason: Nesting Birds

2021 update: The Ravens have now fledged and therefore the restriction has been lifted early (7/5/21). Thank you for your help!

The seasonal restriction applies to routes from Bilberry Buttress to Stern Face inclusive for nesting ravens.

In addition, a Tawny Owl has been reported nesting in Flake Crack on the left side of Apple Buttress - this route and Layback Crack are best avoided, not only for the birds sake but for your own safety as tawny owls are known to ferrociously defend their nests.

 

Parking and Approach

Parking at the small layby at SK 272738 at the LH end of the edge on the Sheffield to Baslow road (A621) is soon to be prevented by mounding. Some parking is available back towards Sheffield at SK 280739 on the B road leading to Old Brampton.Alt. to gain the rh end of the edge approach in 15 min. along footpath 200m downhill of the Eric Byne car park (SK 279721) on the Chesterfield - Baslow road (A619).
Area information

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Anonymous User
02/04/2021
Nesting Tawny Owl in Flake Crack (LH side of Apple butttess) avoid this route and Layback Crack, got a nasty surprise today so backed off..