As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where
you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.
A steep crag (with a house on top). There is a fair amount of questionable rock on this crag, but in between are some excellent steep, smooth faces with copius quantities of flowstone, some amazing orange coral and a number of very sustained lines.
||South West & Southern
||No. of Routes:
|Within National Park:
A significant rockfall in 2014 took out a number of routes in the Coralized Area of the crag - there is a good chance of further instability and rockfall so climbers are advised to be very careful when walking underneath this area of the crag and moving quickly through it is advisable.
Restrictions apply from
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes from The Nook toVan Life inclusive. Routes right (looking in) of Van Life are unaffected, but only accessible via abseil from Dungecroft Quarry to prevent disturbance to the birds via the normal approach.
Parking and Approach
Park at the large and well signposted Cheyne Weares car park, or a small parking area (only space for 2-3 cars) in a short track 300m south of the main car park.
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag