As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where
you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.
A pleasant small crag, with unusual rock. Its South aspect, low altitude and shelter from the forest can make climbing viable here when the mountain crags are impossible-the same features make it ideal for midges however, avoid the crag on still days!Many of the routes are overgraded in the CC guide, in particular Dentist's Slab is easy V Diff (perhaps only Diff), and Brewer's Troupe is Very Severe 4c. Some of the Severes (especially Robbin's Nest) would only get V Diff on other crags in the guidebook.The less-than-vertical, well featured rock makes this a climb-anywhere crag, leading to quite a few claims for new routes (here and elsewhere).
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Parking and Approach
Situated in a private forest; the owner encourages public access. The descent to the crag from the ridge at the west end is getting eroded and can be muddy, an easier-angled approach can be made from the east end of the crag-easier to find when leaving! Move out of the power line firebreak here http://gridreferencefinder.com/?gr=SH7004251931%7CPoint_s_A%7C0&z=18&v=h&t=Point_s_A and go across to here http://gridreferencefinder.com/?gr=SH7001951893%7CPoint_s_B%7C0&z=18&v=h&t=Point_s_B
Frequently used by groups. However in 20017 the woods appear to be managed by a private agency for the absentee owners. There have been some reports of organised groups being asked to apply for license to climb here. In additon the woodland managers do not wish groups to be in the woods when felling/contractor operations are underway (usually mid-week only). It's thought this work may be completed by mid 2018.
A wide range of cliffs - mainly traditional and multi pitch inc. the popular Llanberis Pass, Idwal Slabs, Clogwyn du'r Arddu and Cwm Silyn cliffs, but also outlying outcrops such as Carreg Alltrem. Many crags are on CROW access land - but not all especially some of the outcrops which lie on private enclosed land. Most of central Snowdonia is both designated an SSSI and also is an European Special Area of Conservation on account of the upland habitat and associated geology and plants found here.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag