COVID-19

As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.

Symonds Yat

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

Unquarried limestone escarpment in a picturesque situation above the River Wye.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Forestry Commission No. of Routes: 500
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1958
Grid Reference: SO560155

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

July 2020 update - The peregrines have left the nest on Strathdon - restriction lifted

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.  

Group Advice

Much in demand for group use, but though convenient for instructors it's less well suited to the needs of students. It also creates severe problems of eroded crag-tops, polished routes, and over-crowding. Commercial organizations are required to pay a fee for use of the site.

Area information

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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Anonymous User
23/05/2018
One of the trees in the introductory rocks area has toppled from the top of the crag and is currently hanging upside down. That is one less tree to belay from.
Anonymous User
23/06/2018
There is a sign at the bottom of The Terrace saying thay there is very rare plant growing in the first pitch of Phizzog. A new acces is few meters to the right, starting at the base of the Russian and with grade VD.
Anonymous User
06/05/2019
Pair of geece nesting atop of the pinnacle, on the river side. I climbed vertigo and the pair seemed okay, but I kept well away. Belay from ledge just below the top
Anonymous User
05/06/2019
There is a notice in the Log Cabin Cafe stating that climbing at Introductory Rocks is closed due to unstable rock in danger of collapse above the northerly approach path.
Anonymous User
03/07/2019
There is a BMC sign and fence erected by the Forestry Commission to prevent climbing Funky Gibbon and adjacent routes, Introductory Rocks, due to the risk of rock fall from the loose block on the crux of Funky Gibbon.
Anonymous User
08/09/2019
Funky Gibbon area is fenced off due to unstable rock.
Anonymous User
21/05/2020
Main car park closed. You can park in the car parks near the Saracens Head. We used the 1st one £6 coins only. Others may take card or phone payment. 2 cars parked in entrance to main car park - double yellow but out of the way and looked ok plus avoids walk up from Saracens. Funky Gibbon still roped off.
Anonymous User
04/08/2020
Does anyone know if the introductory as area is open yet ? Thanks