Accommodation details can be obtained from the Landmark Trust (Tel: 01628 825925). Please check in as a climber with the Lundy Warden on arrival for up to date access information on extended or lifted climbing restrictions, recent rockfall etc. Letting the Landmark Trust know you are a climber when you book your ferry and accommodation doesn't get this information through to the warden so drop in and say hello when you arrive.
A number of rockfalls have affected several crags along the west coast in recent years – please see the CC guidebook supplement for details on what has been affected.
Please do not place any additional abseil/belay stakes or abseil slings without first gaining permission from the Lundy Warden. The approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. This is essential to maintaining a continued good relationship with the Warden and the Landmark Trust.
Restrictions apply from
31 March
-
15 September.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions on Lundy fall into three categories:
- Unrestricted (year round access)
- Restricted from 31 March - 14 August
- Restricted from 31 March - 15 September
Page numbers refer to the first page of each crag from the CC Lundy (2008) guidebook.
Restrictions are continually monitored by the Lundy Warden and team, but if you see any nesting birds within unrestricted areas, please report to the Warden. If birds fledge early or sites fail, the affected restrictions will be lifted once the warden has confirmed that the site(s) are vacant. Likewise, occasionally nesting may start later in the season requiring extension to the restricted period - always check RAD and with the Warden on arrival for any updates to the restrictions.
Unrestricted
Damocles Buttress (pg 29)
Sunset Wall (pg 81)
Landing Craft Bay: First Buttress South (pg 102), First Buttress North (pg 105) & Second Buttress North (pg 111)
Flying Buttress Main Cliff: from The Exorcist (pg 128) to Flying Dutchman (pg 136) inclusive. Access to this area must be via the steps down to the Battery. Do not walk direct across the slope above Battery Cliff/St Patrick’s Buttress. Please also take care to stay close to the edge on the easy way down to ensure nesting sea birds are not disturbed. Lundy is one of only two locations in England where Storm Petrels nest, hiding in walls when they come to land at night. This site is new and any disturbance in 2022 will lead to closure in 2023.
The Earthquake (pg 153)
Picnic Bay Cliff (pg 195)
The Devil’s Slide Area: Narrow Zawn (pg 243) to The Fortress (pg 278)
Torrey Canyon Cliff: Penitence (pg 289) to Blow Out (pg 290) inclusive. During nesting season, access only directly down the rocky ridge and abseil directly into the routes, to avoid disturbing nesting birds on the guidebook approach.
Headline Promontory: The Column (pg 316) Margin (pg 321) inclusive. During nesting season, access only directly down the rocky ridge and abseil directly into the routes, to avoid disturbing nesting birds on the guidebook approach.
The East Coast Quarries (pg 354-359)
Restricted 31 March - 14 August
Kistvaen Buttress (pg 29) to Sunset Promontory (pg 97) inclusive
St Patrick’s Buttress (pg 112) to Battery Cliff (pg 124) inclusive
Flying Buttress from Prenumbra (pg 136) to St James’s Stone (pg 241) inclusive
Dihedral Zawn (pg 197) to St James’s Stone (pg 241) inclusive
St John’s Stone (pg 282) to Gannet’s Buttress (pg 360) and Gannet’s Rock (pg 362) inclusive
Restricted 31 March - 15 September
Black Jack Zawn, Lifeboat Buttress & Jemima Buttress (pg 125)
Flying Buttress: Prenumbra to The Black Pig inclusive (pg 136 – 138)
Devil’s Tower area (pg 162) & Big Zawn (pg 208)
Cormorant Zawn (pg 335)
Storm Zawn (pg 336) & North Light Channel (pg 327)
Gannets’ Rock & Gannets’ Buttress (pg 354)
These restrictions are subject to constant review and it is important that climbers contact the Warden for updates before your visit or on arrival to the Island.
Parking and Approach
By far the most popular way to reach Lundy is the ferry crossing on the MS Oldberg run by the Landmark Trust. Other options include sea kayak at the more adventurous end of the spectrum, through to private boat charter or helicopter. Full details on travel options can be found on the Landmark Trust website .
CRoW Information
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website .