Craig Caerfai

Pembroke North

Another excellent sandstone slab, and with a good choice of grades. The rock here is well-supplied with edges and cracks, and the most alluring ticks are probably Caerfai Crack and Armorican. The crag is a two-fold affair, with the easier lines on the higher-positioned left-hand end; the taller, darker slab on the right provides the longer and more adventurous forays into the Extreme grades plus a classic VS.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: National Trust No. of Routes: 27
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1980
Grid Reference: SM7617924054

Parking and Approach

Drive up the hill to the edge of St David's (heading east), then take the first right to Caerfai Bay. Follow this road (past two rather expensive campsites) to reach the free car park at the end (the view here is absolutely STUNNING). Walk south-east on the coastal path; at around 600m, you'll reach a bend in the path and the top of the two-part slab, where five or so abseil stakes will be evident. It's possible to scramble into the crag from the left-hand side (looking in) utilising slabs and a ramp system - to locate this, first trend rightwards (north), then swing back southwards to gain the crag base. An alternative is an abseil down the crag's centre.

Area information

Less frequented than the south, there are some very popular cliffs along the southern bays of St David's, but also some very remote and atmospheric cliffs further north. Wildlife is abundant and the abscence of a formal restriction does not mean that protected birds are not present - so climbers are asked to be observant and avoid routes if the prescence of climbers is obviously causing disturbance to the birds. Many of the bays are also important seal breeding areas - if breeding seals are present then again please avoid.

Weather Information

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