Chudleigh (North Face)

South Devon

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 43
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1960
Grid Reference: SX867787

Chudleigh North Face is within The Rock Gardens, the grounds of a private house. The land is owned by the Boulton family, who have been resident there since before local climbers first developed the cliffs in the 1960s. Over the years, the Boultons have been very supportive of climbing and remain happy for individual climbers to visit, providing:

  • All climbers call into the Chudleigh Rock Nursery before climbing to sign the visitors book
  • All climbers have third party liability insurance up to £10 million - this is a standard feature of BMC and MCofS membership, or can be organised elsewhere
  • All climbers including commercial and educational groups should contact John, preferably in advance on his mobile (call or text) 07771280535 for permission prior to using the site

Climbers are fortunate to have access to this climbing locality and must not jeopardise this access agreement with any sort of antisocial behaviour. The gardens are used by campers and are open to the public and it is very important that the removal of any loose rock is carefully managed. Any significant clearance of vegetation or proposals for unearthing of neglected routes should be agreed in advance with John Boulton.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Climbers should be aware that some of the bolts on the North Face have been either fully or partially chopped and remain in place in a seriously weakened state. The BMC would always encourage climbers to carefully inspect any fixed gear prior to use and make an individual judgement on its state, but in this case, additional caution should be exercised. The routes on the North Face were originally climbed as trad routes, so if attempting these routes you may wish to carry a trad rack with you.



Parking and Approach

Either park on Rock Lane and walk in from there, following the same path as for the South Face climbing area. Using this approach, turn right through a gate at the point where the stone circle comes into view, then go leftwards down a set of steps towards the crags. The small crag near the stone circle is the Far Eastern Buttress.

Or, with the prior agreement of the Boultons, you can park at Rock House. From the parking area by the house, the Garden Wall is down a path behind the house. The Eastern Area is up a track on the left; turn right and cross the small camping ground.


Group Advice

Instructed, commercial or educational groups should contact  John at the Rock Nursey on 07771280535 for permission prior to using the site

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access needs updating "All climbers call into the Chudleigh Rock Nursery before climbing to sign the visitors book" it looks as if it has been closed for years ?

Commercial and educational groups should contact Bruce or John at the Rock Nursey on (01626) 852134 for permission prior to using the site - this number seems to no longer be in use?

Anonymous User
John requested that people call him on 07771280535 as listed in the south devon guide, NOT the number listed here on RAD
Anonymous User
Access info still out of date.
Call or text John, preferably in advance on his mobile.


Met John Boulton at the crag yesterday - lovely chap, very keen to support climbers in using the N Face, but does need people to contact him first (he was felling trees when we were there so totally reasonably didn’t want random people hanging around whilst he was working).