Llangattock Escarpment

South East Wales

A long escarpment south of the Usk Valley, overlooking Crickhowell. Sometimes regarded as esoteric, the crag has a lot to offer to the climber wanting to get away from the crowds.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
County Powys Access Status: Advice
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Common Land No. of Routes: 240
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1973
Grid Reference: SO188157

An extensive escarpment - part quarried in a scenic position overlooking Crickhowell. The vast majority of the routes are very adventurous and traditional. Many are typical of their type. After a meeting of local climbers, the BMC South Wales Area passed a vote that the crag would remain as a traditional venue with leader placed protection and would not be developed as a sports climbing venue. It was agreed that at some time in the future (and depending on landowner consent), some agreed sections could be equiped with bolted lower offs avoid the need to top out onto loose muddy slopes. There are belay stakes in place at some locations. Users are advised that the landowner has not agreed to the  placing of any belay stakes and takes no responsibility for their suitability as climbing anchors.  

 

 

CRoW Information

Lies on CROW land.

Group Advice

The previous agreement between the land owner, Brecon Beacons National Park, and a local outdoor shop for a booking system for groups has now expired and is thought to be not needed anymore. This is partially as it appears that the difficult grazier has moved away from the area and climbers are no longer being violently confronted and partially due to the fact that the previous managment agreement betwen the National Park and the landowner has now expired. There is currently (Summer 2015) no requirement for groups or individuals climbing here to book in advance or hire belay stakes from the outdoor retailer in Crickhowell.

Area information

A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons. Up to date oute info can found on the South Wales Mountaineering Club wiki pages http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/South_Wales_Mountaineering_Club_-_Guidebook_Wiki

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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