A long escarpment south of the Usk Valley, overlooking Crickhowell. Sometimes regarded as esoteric, the crag has a lot to offer to the climber wanting to get away from the crowds. Climbs are now well-documented in the (2020) Gilwern guide as well as the South Wales Climbing Wiki.]
It is situated within the national park, as well as the Mynydd Llangatwg/Llangattock SSSI. While taking time here, please take care of the delicate environment which includes 250 species of flowering plants, notable mosses and lichens, and rich grasslands.
May 2023- Recent Rockfall, Darren Disgwylfa area, no routes effected but this could lead to further rockfall.
Climbing Area:
Wales
Rock Type:
Limestone
Importance:
Regional
CRoW Land:
Yes
Ownership:
Common Land
No. of Routes:
240
Within National Park:
Yes
Year Developed:
1973
Grid Reference:
SO188157
An extensive escarpment - part quarried in a scenic position overlooking Crickhowell. The vast majority of the routes are very adventurous and traditional. Many are typical of their type. After a meeting of local climbers, the BMC South Wales Area passed a vote that the crag would remain as a traditional venue with leader placed protection and would not be developed as a sports climbing venue. It was agreed that at some time in the future (and depending on landowner consent), some agreed sections could be equiped with bolted lower offs avoid the need to top out onto loose muddy slopes. Some of these routes have now been equipped with lower offs (see 2020 Gilwern Guide). There are belay stakes in place at some locations. Users are advised that the landowner has not agreed to the placing of any belay stakes and takes no responsibility for their suitability as climbing anchors.
CRoW Information
Lies on CROW land.
Group Advice
The previous agreement between the land owner, Brecon Beacons National Park, and a local outdoor shop for a booking system for groups has now expired and is thought to be not needed anymore. This is partially as it appears that the difficult grazier has moved away from the area and climbers are no longer being violently confronted and partially due to the fact that the previous managment agreement betwen the National Park and the landowner has now expired. There is currently (Summer 2015) no requirement for groups or individuals climbing here to book in advance or hire belay stakes from the outdoor retailer in Crickhowell.
A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons.
To Donate to the South Wales Bolt Fund https://www.southwalesboltfund.co.uk/swbf/support/
Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-https://swcw.org.uk/
Guidebook info currently being updated
There are no files associated with this crag