As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where
you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.
A small, west-facing quarry that gets the evening sun.The main attraction is the handful of bolted routes from F6a+ to F7a.The crag dries quickly; seeps little. Rebolted 2008.
The crag is on private land, is not on land mapped or designated open access and is not accessible by any public rights of way. The landowners make it clear that they do not allow access for climbing and any climbers seen here by them will be asked to leave. They have experienced damage around fences due to climbers and are not currently interested in discussing access.
Updated as of 7/4/2021
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Reports have been recieved that climbers have been approached by the landowners and been told to leave (Spring 2018). If approached please be respectful to the owners and report to the BMC. The crag is located on private land which is not open access land and is not on a public right of way.
Parking and Approach
M4 J34: road to Llantrisant, then follow A4119 twds Tonyrefail. After 5mi turn R to Gilfach Goch and Coed Ely. The crag is above and R directly after the roundabout: take the first turn R in Coed Ely; at the top of the road turn R (parking).Walk to the end of the road, climb over the gate, follow path to the crag.
A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons.
Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-https://swcw.org.uk/
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag