Coastguard area

Portland

The cliffs below the coastguard lookout on the west coast give some of the best routes on Portland, often taking advantage of the incredible flowstone found in abundance on these crags. Nestled beneath these fine cliffs are some huge boulders and a collection of decent boulder problems. Finding good conditions can be tricky though with greasy rock a common occurrence with no wind or high humidity. Late summer evenings or a decent breeze on a sunny day are the best bet for these crags.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 167
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SY675691

Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard climbs with many in the high 7s and the area's hardest route at 8a+. The approach is quick and easy and a visit is well worth considering if you are tired of the more crowded Blacknor and Battleship Areas. Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.

Parking and Approach

Park at the large Portland Bill car park (pay and display), and walk north for 400m across the grassy area towards the Coastguard lookout. Just before reaching the lookout, head down the grassy bank and scramble down and rightwards (looking out) on a steep and precarious path to the boulder beach/promontory between Coastguard North and South.

Area information

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