Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard climbs with many in the high 7s and the area's hardest route at 8a+. The approach is quick and easy and a visit is well worth considering if you are tired of the more crowded Blacknor and Battleship Areas. Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.
Parking and Approach
Park at the large Portland Bill car park (pay and display), and walk north for 400m across the grassy area towards the Coastguard lookout. Just before reaching the lookout, head down the grassy bank and scramble down and rightwards (looking out) on a steep and precarious path to the boulder beach/promontory between Coastguard North and South.