User attention
3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.
A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.
from 03/03/0023
Compact rock with some brilliant multi-pitch routes up to 350ft. Protection can be sparse, and pegs should always be treated with care. Aim for Sackful Of Clowns (HVS 5a), The Tomb (E2 5b), The Awakening (E3 5c), America (E4 5c) and Guernica (E6 6b).
Climbing Area:
South West & Southern
Rock Type:
Igneous
Importance:
National
CRoW Land:
Yes
Ownership:
National Trust
No. of Routes:
167
Within National Park:
No
Year Developed:
Grid Reference:
SW698511
Restrictions apply from
15 March
-
31 July.
Reason: Nesting Birds
2023 Update - Negotiations are underway to establish agreed seasonal restrictions going forward. In the meantime please observe the Temporary Restrictions as detailed above.
Parking and Approach
Tidal in most parts.From St Agnes on the N coast follow the minor coast road to a turning on the R. Follow rough track to parking near the coastguard station. 400m E is the top of the America Wall. Abseil access is best.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag