The BMC have now negotiated access guidelines for climbers with the Countryside Agency, English Nature & Durham County Council, which must be followed otherwise access could be lost. This crag forms part of the Upper Teesdale Site of Special Scientific Interest due to the rich diversity of rare species and relict arctic-alpine plants. This area has a high level of legal protection, and anyone damaging conservation interests can be punished by a large fine and/or imprisonment. · Do not remove cliff vegetation this is an illegal (and punishable) offence under the Wildlife and Countryside and CRoW Acts · Climbing is only permitted on buttresses numbered 1 to 5 (in crag pamphlet) · Do not climb on the buttress between Great Chimney and Charlie’s Chimney (inc. these routes), or on the area under the black lines on buttress 3 (see pamphlet) · Avoid climbing onto the large vegetated ledges · Do not abseil from the trees · Descend from buttresses 1, 2, and 3 down the back When topping-out from buttresses 4 and 5 descend via the large grassy gully on the right · When moving between buttresses stay on the obvious ‘sheep-track’ · Do not walk on ANY of the scree slopes · Only approach the crag by the designated access point · Follow the Countryside Code · If you spot Ring Ouzel’s in early-mid March, call Natural England. Guidelines photo-pamphlet available at the crag. For more details also see; www.climbonline.co.uk/PDFs/Holwick%20Scar%202005.pdf
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.