COVID-19

As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.

Cademan Woods

East Midlands

Volcanic boulders spread through a woodland setting, which have recently seen hugely increased popularity and resulting access issues starting to emerge. Land ownership is complex in the woods but the majority is privately owned and access for climbing could be withdrawn, so please follow the guidelines below and do your bit to make sure climbers aren't viewed negatively by local people.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Midlands Rock Type: Granite
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 450
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1990
Grid Reference: SK438170

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.
     
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.

Parking and Approach

A small formal car park with space for around 8 cars is located off Swannymote Road (see parking pin on the map or hit 'navigate to parking' if using the RAD app) and this is the best place to park if there is space.

If not, other parking spots exist along the roads which form the boundary of the woods but great care must be taken to avoid obstructing traffic or damaging verges - if in doubt find somewhere better to park or come back another day when things are quieter.

Area information

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
30/06/2020
Be sure to use the gate at the far end, do not hop over the wall (barbed wire has now been installed where there was a step but dont hop over anywhere else instead)

Avoid if crag / parking is busy, apparently the locals have expressed some annoyance at the area becoming busy