Stanage

Eastern Gritstone

The iconic Gritstone edge which crowns a 5km stretch of the Peak. With thousands of routes, world-class bouldering and enough climbing of all grades for any climber at any level, Stanage Edge has some of the most spectacular climbs both on Gritstone and in the world.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Gritstone
Importance: International CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Within National Park No. of Routes: 1900
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1890
Grid Reference: SK228853

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Parking and Approach

Stanage is one of the most frequented crags in the world. On busy weekends parking can be a problem and the PDNPA have introduced a series of traffic management measures to address this. This includes creating formal parking areas, roadside bunds and reduced speed limits. There are now 310 formal parking spaces on the North Lees Estate which should be sufficient on all but the busiest weekends. 

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.  

Group Advice

All group leaders should familiarise themselves with the BMC Green Guide for Groups of Climbers.

Area information

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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