Hen Cloud

Staffordshire

Towering bastion of Western Grit, playing host to some of the longest routes on gritstone. It has a well deserved reputation for tough grading, but go prepared for a fight and some phenomenal routes await, whether you're finding your feet outside or a seasoned hero.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Gritstone
County Staffordshire Access Status: Restrictions/ Sensitive Access
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Within National Park No. of Routes: 132
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1909
Grid Reference: SK008615

The footpath up to the centre of the crag is eroding in places, please try to walk on stones/boulders where possible. This whole area is vulnerable to fire in dry conditions and the ecology is sensitive.

Restrictions apply from 13 March - 25 July.
Reason: Nesting Birds

The climbing restriction extends from Nutted By Reality to Easy Come inclusive. Please also avoid walking above the restricted area of the crag.

A camera system has been setup this year to monitor the nest site and you may notice a wooden post has been installed in soil at the top to mount the camera on, with cables running down the crag below. It's worth reassuring climbers that none of this kit has been attached to the rock, it will all be removed as soon as the chicks fledge and no damage has or will be done to the crag in the process.

Parking and Approach

Parking has always been limited at the Roaches and Hen Cloud and during peak times, it can be hard to find a space - consider lift sharing to reduce the number of vehicles and increase your chance of getting parked. Ensure that you park within the marked bays and don't block the road, gates or driveways - remember that large farm machinery and rescue vehicles need space to pass too. Given the limited amount of parking available, have a plan B in mind in case you cannot get parked near the crag.

Tickets have been issued for vehicles parked on the verges outside of the parking bays and wardens are patrolling 7 days a week including bank holidays. 

Group Advice

All group leaders should familiarise themselves with BMC's Green Guide for Groups of Climbers.

Area information

Weather Information

Staffordshire Grit

Series Editor: G MillburnCompiled by: G Gibson

BMC

2009

On Peak Rock

BMC Guidebook Committee

BMC

1993

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