Amenable climbing at reasonable grades. The climbing feels exposed, yet is actually well-protected; the cruxes arrive with gear. Mostly single, some multi-pitch routes up to 50m. Highly recommended: Saxon (HVS 4c, 4c), Rock Dancer (E1 5a) and Thane (E1 5b).
|South West & Southern
|No. of Routes:
|Within National Park:
Tidal in parts, but mostly not other than in high seas when large swells can hit the crag.
Restrictions apply from
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to the whole crag for four weeks whilst young choughs are fledging (when they are most vulnerable to disturbance).
Parking and Approach
Approach from Nancherrow/Tregeseal (SW 370,319) on the B3306 just north of St Just, at the base of the steep hill leading out of the road towards Botallack. Kenidjack Valley is seaward from the road junction at the bottom of the hill; a rough road runs for about 1mi along the N side of the valley. (It can be confusing - don't navigate into people's drives). Follow the road keeping generally L until it ends at quarries. The main cliff lies below these and a long abseil rope is useful as the anchor is a fair way back from the crag edge.
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag