Kay Nest Crag


The crag is discontinuous in nature and predominantly obscured by trees. A couple of impressive buttresses are visible and there are areas of clean if impressively steep slabs and aretes. Other than extensive bouldering, there is little of interest for the low and middle grade climber.

Crag information
Climbing Area: North East Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 8
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1950
Grid Reference: SE 583987

Parking and Approach

There is parking at Chop Gate Village Hall SE559993 (currently £1) by the B1257. Cross the road and approach William Beck Farm by path and track. Skirt the farm to its immediate right and continue due east through fields up the moor side. On leaving the top field (Black Intake), the approach continues straight ahead on a feint path east across the moor top. The OS map shows a bridleway heading right down to an obvious stream crossing although a new dolerite shooters road leads down to the same crossing. Approach time 45 - 60 mins to this point.

The boulders lie downstream on the east side of the beck. The crag proper is also downstream on the left face of Tripsdale. To approach from below, take the shooters road part way uphill before traversing in to the right. This is particularly tortuous due to broken ground, vegetation and fallen trees. There is also evidence of instability and caution is needed. There is a good footpath across the top of the crag but first time visitors and those without the benefit of local knowledge may find locating the routes problematic.

There are alternative if slightly longer approaches, by Right of Way up Tripsdale from the B1257.

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.  

Group Advice

Due to the seriousness of the climbs and difficulties in accessing the routes, the crag is not deemed suitable for group use.

Area information

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

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