COVID-19

As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.

Pandy Outcrop

Clwyd Limestone

User attention

“The owner at Pandy Outcrop and surrounding woodland wishes to inform the BMC that the land is currently a working woodland, with large scale tree felling operations, unstable tree stands, and heavy machinery in the vicinity of the climbing area and the surrounding access routes, making the area hazardous to visitors who do not have the direct written permission of the landowner.

As a result, the site remains closed to all visitors, excepting public rights of way, where they exist, applying to climbers, walkers and all other would be visitors, until safe routes on and off the climbing area can be provided.

Once work has been completed, the owner will issue a new statement with more information for the long term, via the BMC. He thanks you all for you patience and understanding, which will result in the long term in a safe, enjoyable facility. For now - please do not visit under any circumstances, the land is too dangerous to approach or to climb on.” from 14/08/2020

A single pitch traditonal venue in a great setting overlooking the Ceirog Valley. Popular with local outdoor centres but also some good mid grade single pitch routes which can be rather neglected.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 24
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1970
Grid Reference: SJ193362

The rocks are located in a block of privately owned woodland that are being actively managed.  Due to ongoing forestry operations, access may not always be possible and could be different from that described in the guidebook. 

Parking can be an issue. Do not park  at the base of the track leading to the crag. Parking  should in the village of Pandy and walking a bit further to avoid blocking gateways and narrow lanes.

Update July 2020

The landowner has asked the BMC to publish this statement regarding access to the crag.

“The owner at Pandy Outcrop and surrounding woodland wishes to inform the BMC that the land is currently a working woodland, with large scale tree felling operations, unstable tree stands, and heavy machinery in the vicinity of the climbing area and the surrounding access routes, making the area hazardous to visitors who do not have the direct written permission of the landowner.

As a result, the site remains closed to all visitors, excepting public rights of way, where they exist, applying to climbers, walkers and all other would be visitors, until safe routes on and off the climbing area can be provided.

Once work has been completed, the owner will issue a new statement with more information for the long term, via the BMC. He thanks you all for you patience and understanding, which will result in the long term in a safe, enjoyable facility. For now - please do not visit under any circumstances, the land is too dangerous to approach or to climb on.”

Parking and Approach

Park in the village and follow public paths through the woods. Ensure you do not block any entrances or create an obstruction.

Group Advice

To be updated.....

Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and very occassioaly in the Trevor Area (but birds have not nested on that section for over 10 years). The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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Anonymous User
26/07/2018
25/07/18 no notice from new owners, some gardening has been done. THERE IS A WASP NEST AT THE TOP OF CANNON BUTTRESS!!! we had to retreat due to angry wasps leaving a sling and crab around the chockstone! The nest is at the top of the chimney, right next to anchor points for belays used by all climbs up the buttress.