As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop. from 25/03/2020
The largest of the Wilton Quarries, Wilton 1 hosts some of the proudest lines around as well as 'The Prow', an iconic feature and testament to the quarryman’s skill, not to mention a rite of passage for Lancashire climbers to repeat one of its routes. The climbing here is arguably the finest in Lancashire - thin cracks, sharp breaks and a glut of challenging routes make this quarry is an excellent and convenient playground, with an even more convenient pub (the Wilton Arms) located below the quarry.
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Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:
Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call as to whether they think it is reliable or not. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.
The nesting peregrines have unfortunately failed this year for reasons unknown so the restriction has been lifted early.
Parking and Approach
Parking is available at the BMC owned car park to the left of the Wilton Arms (facing the pub) or on the side of Scout Road opposite the entrance to Wilton 2, 4 & 3.
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag