Wilton 1

South Lancashire

User attention

Advisory notice: 7 May 2024. Birds reported nesting in the route Jean in the Allotment area, avoid this and surrounding routes for now.

from 07/05/2024 to 30/06/2024

The largest of the Wilton Quarries, Wilton 1 hosts some of the proudest lines around as well as 'The Prow', an iconic feature and testament to the quarryman’s skill, not to mention a rite of passage for Lancashire climbers to repeat one of its routes. The climbing here is arguably the finest in Lancashire - thin cracks, sharp breaks and a glut of challenging routes make this quarry is an excellent and convenient playground, with an even more convenient pub (the Wilton Arms) located below the quarry.

Crag information
Climbing Area: North West Rock Type: Gritstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: BMC Owned No. of Routes: 309
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1961
Grid Reference: SD700133

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

Restrictions apply from 7 May - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the route Jean on the Allotment area. Stay off routes/problems in this area to avoid possible disturbance.
[Updated 7 May 2024]

Parking and Approach

Parking is available at the BMC owned car park to the left of the Wilton Arms (facing the pub) or on the side of Scout Road opposite the entrance to Wilton 2, 4 & 3. 

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Area information

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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Does anyone know the days and times that Wilton Quarry is open and accessible for climbing?