Beeston Tor

Peak Limestone

A cracking crag with natural pocketed limestone of good quality and sun trap tendencies make it a good all year venue, but particularly in winter when everywhere else is too cold. Home of some of the best face routes on lime up to 70m long, but litle below HVS. Central Wall (VS 4b), Beeston Eliminate (HVS 4c,5a,5a) and Pocket Symphony (E1 5b) are all fine examples but the most outstanding routes are The Beest, Black Grub and Majolica (all E3).

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: National Trust No. of Routes: 37
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1954
Grid Reference: SK106541

The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Flying Doctor The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).

Parking and Approach

From the A515 Buxton Ashbourne road head west through Alstonefield to Wetton (SK 108533). Continue along the Manifold Valley/Grindon road to Weag's Bridge and parking (SK 100543). The Tor is 10 min walk south along the river.
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Anonymous User
There is currently a nesting restriction -falcons nesting at The Gash- apparently since 24/3/17. Certainly notices are up on access path as of 25/3/17.
Rob Dyer(staff comment)
Thanks for the heads up - we've now arranged a site meeting with the National Trust to negotiate an appropriate restriction. Keep an eye on this page for updates and avoid the crag until a formal restriction has been agreed.
Anonymous User
There are definitely still falcons nesting in the Ivy Gash, though there doesn't seem to be a notice on the access path any more.