Regional Access Database

Advice The Roaches

Has it all - from lengthy 3* scrambles to cutting edge E8 mindgames. Britain's best gritstone crag?

BMC Area Peak District Rock Type Gritstone
Climbing Area Staffordshire Access Status Advice
County Staffordshire CRoW Land Yes
Importance National No. of Routes 352
Ownership Within National Park Year Developed 1901
Within National Park Yes Grid Reference SK002630

Please keep to the established footpaths and avoid taking short-cuts across open moorland areas. In particular please approach the ‘Cube’ boulder along the sheep track running due south.

Rockhall Cottage is run as a climbers and walkers hut by the BMC. It can be booked for up to 12 people - further information on the hut and the booking system can be found here.

Parking has always been limited at the Roaches and Hen Cloud and during peak times, it can be hard to find a space. Please consider lift sharing to reduce the number of vehicles and increase your chance of getting parked. Ensure that you park within the marked bays and don't block the road, gates or driveways - remember that large farm machinery and rescue vehicles need space to pass too. Given the limited amount of parking available, have a plan B in mind in case you cannot get parked near the crag.

Tickets have recently started to be issued for vehicles parked on the verges outside of the parking bays and wardens are patrolling 7 days a week including bank holidays. 

All group leaders should familiarise themselves with BMC's Green Guide to Groups of Climbers.

Environmental damage is occuring at certain areas of the Lower and Upper Tier and this is exacerbated in wet conditions. Established routes should not be used fo abseiling and in particular avoid any of the slab routes. If you intend to use any area for an extended period of time be sensitive to the needs of others who may wish to use it - in particular do not leave ropes in situ. 

The land surrounding the crag is Open Access land.See map here;

This page was last updated on 03/10/2016. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.