COVID-19

As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.

Craig y Forwyn (Llanddulas)

Northern Limestone (Inland)

Outstanding trad crag in sheltered woodland suntrap, but with a long history of access issues.

Due to numerous issues when the gate was left open and the farmer's sheep then getting out,  access through the gate to the crag top parking is now controlled by a keypad lock - the code is 7331.  It can't overstated that it's imperative that this gate is securely closed at all times and the padlock secured after leaving. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 100
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1960
Grid Reference: SH907767

The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn is as follows:-

  •  CENTRAL SECTION- (Great Wall, etc.) From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze– the new owners of Plas Newydd Caravan Park have made it be known thay they cannot currently give consent  for ACCESS OVER THE LAND OR ACCESS FOR CLIMBING ON THIS LAND. There are new owners and negotiations are underway. While some low level climbing activity appears to be ongoing without any objection, the landowners are very clear that they do not give permisson for climbing here and any issues will put a stop to any long term solutions to allow climbing.  
  • RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, the occupiers of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2019) . The new occupiers of this section have told the BMC that they will not object to climbers on this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum.  As yet there is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the whole cliff is an SSSI it would be illegal to do without formal consent from NRW. 
  • LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
  • Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.

Do not park below the crag - follow the access instructions in the current editon of North Wales Limestone guidebook (or see below).  

Parking and Approach

Do not park on the verges or in front of houses onTrawscoed Road or anywhere on Isallt Road (the road below the crag). The correct parking is located at a hairpin bend, along a narrow si9ngle track lane that becomes a track, leading off Trawscoed Road. Go through the left hand gate into the field (padlocked - key code 7331)  Park on the grass on the left-hand up-hill side (not on downside above slope to crag) OS Grid 902(5) 764(5) if it is too boggy it would be fine to park a couple of vehicles on the main track in the field. Don't worry about blocking the farmer's access as Bob Jones (the land owner) says he will be able to get around if required on his quad or 4 wheel-drive. He told the BMC Cymru Officer that he is very thankful that we (climbers) don't leave litter. IT'S IMPERATIVE THAT THE GATE IS KEPT SECURELY SHUT AT ALL TIMES - PLEASE ENSURE IT'S FULLY LATCHED EACH TIME! 

Criag y Forwyn Parking A. To get to this spot up the valley from Llanddulas:
Drive along Isallt Rd. below the escarpment, passing Plas Newydd Caravan Park. At 2 km beyond the caravan park, follow the road as it bends to the right to pass a Chapel on the right. At the following T-junction, turn right and proceed along Dolwen Rd. (Llysfaen) for approximately 200m then take a sharp right turn along Trawscoed Rd. After approximately 900m (the last 100m are quite rough) there is a sharp right hand hairpin with two gates on the left. Go through the metal gate and park on the grass above the farmers track/North Wales Footpath.

B. OR (better) from the A547 (Abergele Road):
Drive as you would do to get to Castle Inn quarry but do not turn down the lane to Castle Inn. Instead carry on past the Semaphore Inn and the school. At a grassed area turn left onto Trawscoed road. Saves driving down the lane.




Approach this wayAccessing the crag from the agreed parking is easy and convenient - walk from down the inclined field and head for a stile in the right hand corner. This will take you directly into the left hand sections of the crag.

 

Area information

This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as other crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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