Regional Access Database

Advice Moel y Gest quarry

A granite quarry high up on Moel y Gest, above Porthmadog. Contains some seriously loose and adventurous traditional climbing as well as more recent bouldering and sports developments.

BMC Area Wales Rock Type Granite
Climbing Area Snowdonia Access Status Advice
County Gwynedd CRoW Land Yes
Importance Local No. of Routes 35
Ownership Private Year Developed 1967
Within National Park No Grid Reference SH556389

This granite quarry was developed in the 1960ies, but due to loose rock was ignored until recently. The quarry is nicely seperated into three bays, a large eastern bay, a small central bay and a large western bay. A number of new boulder problems have been discovered in the right hand bay, while a small number of new sports routes have been developed in all three bays.

Restrictions apply from  1 March - 15 June. Reason - Nesting Birds

The restriction may be lifted or modified later in the season following site visits by RSPB. The quarry is in three distinct bays, and the birds (two seperate protected species) tend to vary their exact nest sites each year. Outside of the restricted times climbers are asked to be aware that if their prescence disturbs the birds (screeching sounds, and obviously agitated birds) then they should not linger beneath the nest area.

2014 Update - restriction in middle and right hand bays have been lifted early. Left hand buttress remains restricted.

Not suitable.

CROW land

A wide range of cliffs - mainly traditional and multi pitch inc. the popular Llanberis Pass, Idwal Slabs, Clogwyn du'r Arddu and Cwm Silyn cliffs, but also outlying outcrops such as Carreg Alltrem. Many crags are on CROW access land - but not all especially some of the outcrops which lie on private enclosed land. Most of central Snowdonia is both designated an SSSI and also is an European Special Area of Conservation on account of the upland habitat and associated geology and plants found here.

This page was last updated on 13/05/2014. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.