Regional Access Database

Advice Craig Arthur

Great crag with high quality routes (both adventurous trad. and some great bolt protected routes) on steep terrain and good rock.

BMC Area Wales Rock Type Limestone
Climbing Area Clwyd Limestone Access Status Advice
County Clwyd CRoW Land Yes
Importance National No. of Routes 100
Ownership Private Year Developed 1960
Within National Park No Grid Reference SJ224472

The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest and an European designated Special Area Of Conservation. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.

The birds have succesfully fledged and the restriction will be lifted early on Saturday June 20th for 2015.

Restrictions apply from  15 February - 20 June. Reason - Nesting Birds

2015 Restrictions changes -  applies from "Black & Blue"  to the far south side of the crag incusive - all routes between these routes are restricted from Feb 15th until June 20th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions.   i.e. all routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector.





Parking at the World's End path is very restricted. Do not park on or in the passing places on  the road. Parking is suggested to be in lay-bys or pull ins above the wooded area on the open moor.


On Open Access land See map here;

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and in the Trevor Area. The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

This page was last updated on 30/06/2015. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.