Regional Access Database

Restrictions/ Sensitive Access Craig Arthur

Great crag with high quality routes (both adventurous trad. and some great bolt protected routes) on steep terrain and good rock.

BMC Area Wales Rock Type Limestone
Climbing Area Clwyd Limestone Access Status Restrictions/ Sensitive Access
County Clwyd CRoW Land Yes
Importance National No. of Routes 100
Ownership Private Year Developed 1960
Within National Park No Grid Reference SJ224472





The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest and an European designated Special Area Of Conservation. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.





Restrictions apply from  15 February - 25 July. Reason - Nesting Birds


2014 Restriction only applies from "Heaven or Hell" to Marie Antoinette" incusive -all routes between these routes are restricted from Feb 15th until July 25th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. This means that again for 2014 the classic routes Digitron and all of Sunnyside buttress are not restricted.



 



 



 










Unsuitable.






On Open Access land See map here; http://www.ccw.gov.uk/





The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered.

The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds.

In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive.

Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice.

- The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and in the Trevor Area. The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'.

Conservation Advice

- If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area.

- Stick to established paths across scree slopes.

- Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

  
This page was last updated on 15/04/2014. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.