Regional Access Database

Restrictions/ Sensitive Access Craig y Forwyn (Craig Isallt)

Outstanding trad crag in sheltered woodland suntrap, but with a long history of access issues.

BMC Area Wales Rock Type Limestone
Climbing Area Northern Limestone (Inland) Access Status Restrictions/ Sensitive Access
County Clwyd CRoW Land No
Importance National No. of Routes 100
Ownership Private Year Developed 1960
Within National Park No Grid Reference SH907767

The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn is as follows: CENTRAL SECTION- From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze– the owner of Plas Newydd Caravan Park has made it be known that he does not permit ACCESS OVER THE LAND OR CLIMBING in this section. He also actively enforces this restriction on the land that he owns. RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards), is owned by another landowner who has also indicated that she does not wish to have climbers on her land. LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only. Note: The Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) has some concerns about tree clearance below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the Countryside Council for Wales and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.

This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as other crags along the A55 corridor.
Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.

This page was last updated on 26/09/2012. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.