Regional Access Database

Restrictions/ Sensitive Access Craig y Forwyn (Craig Isallt)

Outstanding trad crag in sheltered woodland suntrap, but with a long history of access issues.

BMC Area Wales Rock Type Limestone
Climbing Area Northern Limestone (Inland) Access Status Restrictions/ Sensitive Access
County Clwyd CRoW Land No
Importance National No. of Routes 100
Ownership Private Year Developed 1960
Within National Park No Grid Reference SH907767




The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn is as follows

  •  CENTRAL SECTION- From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze– the owner of Plas Newydd Caravan Park has made it be known that HE DOES NOT ALLOW ACCESS OVER THE LAND OR ACCESS FOR CLIMBING ON HIS LAND.  He also actively enforces this restriction on the land that he owns and climbers have been asked to leave by the Police in recent past.
  • RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, thie ownership of this section of the cliff has recently changed (early 2014) .The views of the new land-owners towards allowing access for climbing are not known and this is being investigated by the BMC.
  • LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
  • Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.



Please only park at the approach Do not park on the verges or in front of houses onTrawscoed Road or anywhere on Issalt Road (the road below the crag). The correct parking is located at a hairpin bend off Trawscoed Road, through the left hand gate into the field. Park on the grass on the left-hand up-hill side (not on downside above slope to crag) OS Grid 902(5) 764(5) if it is too boggy it would be fine to park a couple of vehicles on the main track in the field. Don't worry about blocking the farmer's access as Bob Jones (the land owner) says he will be able to get around if required on his quad or 4 wheel-drive. He told the BMC Cymru Officer that he is very thankful that we (climbers) don't leave litter.

Criag y Forwyn Parking A. To get to this spot up the valley from Llanddulas:
Drive along Isallt Rd. below the escarpment, passing Plas Newydd Caravan Park. At 2 km beyond the caravan park, follow the road as it bends to the right to pass a Chapel on the right. At the following T-junction, turn right and proceed along Dolwen Rd. (Llysfaen) for approximately 200m then take a sharp right turn along Trawscoed Rd. After approximately 900m (the last 100m are quite rough) there is a sharp right hand hairpin with two gates on the left. Go through the metal gate and park on the grass above the farmers track/North Wales Footpath.

B. OR (better) from the A547 (Abergele Road):
Drive as you would do to get to Castle Inn quarry but do not turn down the lane to Castle Inn. Instead carry on past the Semaphore Inn and the school. At a grassed area turn left onto Trawscoed road. Saves driving down the lane.




Approach this wayAccessing the crag from the agreed parking is easy and convenient - walk from down the inclined field and head for a stile in the right hand corner. This will take you directly into the left hand sections of the crag.

 




This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as other crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.

  
This page was last updated on 26/06/2014. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.