Trevor Bouldering

Clwyd Limestone

Trevor is well known for the proliferation of Sports Climbs there, but there is also some interesting bouldering. This particular area covers the long wall that overlooks Panorama Walk (the road beneath the crag). At the most it gets up to 5m high though is generally around 3-4 metres and includes some very pleasant and clean test pieces, though as with any area, there are less pleasant and loose areas too. Beware the top outs as some are a touch precarious. There are parts of the wall where it is much safer to down climb than to top out.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 460
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SJ239431

Parking and Approach

There are 3 areas listed here:The long Panorama section that sits on the same level as the Trevor Sports climbs.The bouldering in the upper quarry.A few short routes on the upper section above the "Who's Sam" climbs.Leave your car at the broad parking area on Panorama Walk and make your way up the incline as for the usual access to the East end of Trevor. You can head right at this point to the Quarry or to reach the Upper Section. At the point where you would normally head along and right to Suspect Walls you need to stay on the roadside of the path, making your way around the well pronounced gully/stone chute. 50m further along the rock becomes higher. The routes start here and are described right to left, looking in.As with Trevor, there are no current access issues and it is understood that the Panorama Wall boulders do not affect the annual peregrine access situation.

Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and very occassioaly in the Trevor Area (but birds have not nested on that section for over 10 years). The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

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