Back

The Gallery

The Ormes

The Gallery is an outstanding new crag on the North Wales coast. The rock is Quart Enstatite Micro-Diorite (so there!). The crag is partly quarried with slabby starts, sometimes powerful and technial finishes with pitches up to 30m in length. There are lots of lay-away moves and undercuts and the friction is excellent. Apparently fragile fins are solid! Be wary of some very sharp edges, many of which have been blunted deliberately, but care with the ropes is still required.The crag consists of three main areas:1. A lower tier which rises from the sandy beach and has some unrecorded trad. routes.2. The main wall which is immediately above the footpath/cycle-way with sport routes of up to 30m. The crag faces north west and gets the sun from mid afternoon.3. The upper crag, which has two brilliant routes and which is north-facing.It is thought that the main crag is worked out apart from the extreme left wing. Further additions between the exisiting routes would lead to overcrowding and compromise the idnependance of the exisiting routes. There is some potential for more routes on the upper crag but extreme care would be needed on routes further to the right of the exisiting routes because of the possibility of dislodging rocks onto the cycle-way below.Routes are graded for on-sight ascents with no prior knowledge.All of the routes were led and equipped by Colin Struthers and Nadim Siddiqui. with assistance from Jim Burton, Nick Colton and Kevin Stephens.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 25
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SH746785

Parking and Approach

The Gallery main crag is above a public cycle and walk way and there are no access restrictions. From the East (Chester, Llandudno etc.): Exit the Penmaenbach tunnel and after ½ mile come off the A55 expressway at Junction 16A (signposted
Area information

The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

Report a page issue Print this article

Crag Update Feed

Use this feed to update other users about crag conditions or similar current information. Suggested updates to page information should be made using the ‘report a page issue’ button above.

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?

Report a page issue

Please use this feedback form to raise any incorrect information on the page, advise any additonal information that should be included, or any page functionality issues.
Immediate crag updates should be submitted via the comments section at the bottom of the crag page. Any comments made through the page issue form will need to be moderated and will not be dealt with immediately.

    The Gallery

    The Ormes