The quarry is situated on a wooded plateau, high in Soap Well Wood and contains a reasonable amount of rock of questionable quality. The crag is the coast's answer to Newton Dale, therefore one should keep expectations low or just not visit. Shaped like a backwards L, the shorter north facing side contains the best quality rock with minimal looseness. However as you move left along the west facing walls, holds tend to develop a very loose relationship with the rock and routes in this area should only be attempted by the most seasoned choss-botherers.Routes have undoubtedly been climbed here before though with no obvious records any information will be appreciated.Grades might be totally wrong due to some reliance on ironmongery and occasionally slimy conditions.
Climbing Area:
North East
Rock Type:
Sandstone
Importance:
CRoW Land:
No
Ownership:
Unknown
No. of Routes:
15
Within National Park:
No
Year Developed:
Grid Reference:
NZ621197000.
Parking and Approach
Park in Upleatham and follow large tracks west to a gate at the end of Sandy Lane. Go through this and turn right through a gate and follow the obvious path uphill. When the path veers left up a bank, carry straight on past some stones to the crag.
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