Regional Access Database

Advice The Roaches

Has it all - from lengthy 3* scrambles to cutting edge E8 mindgames. Britain's best gritstone crag?

BMC Area Peak District Rock Type Gritstone
Climbing Area Staffordshire Access Status Advice
County Staffordshire CRoW Land Yes
Importance National No. of Routes 352
Ownership Within National Park Year Developed 1901
Within National Park Yes Grid Reference SK002630

Climbers are asked to take note of the following:Please keep to the established footpaths and try not to make short-cut across open moorland areas. In particular please approach the ‘Cube’ boulder along the sheep track running due south. Sanitation: Peak Park estate staff are reporting an increasing sanitation problem particularly in the bouldering area near the Lower Tier. If caught short, please be as discreet as possible and do not leave toilet paper lying in the open or under stones. Rockhall Cottage is owned by the National Park and leased to the BMC. Hut bookings (up to 12) can be made by contacting the Booking Secretary Mark Stock at: or phone 0114 2682337

Environmental damage is being done to certain areas at the Lower and Upper Tier. This is exacerbated in wet conditions. Please do not use bouldering areas for boulder hopping or running up and down. Do not abseil and in particular not down any of the slab routes. If you intend to use any area for an extended period of time be sensitive to the needs of others who may wish to use it. Do not leave ropes in situ. All group leaders should familiarise themselves with BMC guidelines for group use, see here,

The land surrounding the crag is Open Access land.See map here;

This page was last updated on 10/03/2014. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.