Denbigh Castle Quarry

Clwyd Limestone

Sheltered limestone quarry often dry in the rain, both Trad and Sport. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 11
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1980
Grid Reference: SJ 05323 65834

Privately owned and the owner has had issues with partying youths and litter here.  The landowner appreciates that climbers tend to be well behaved and does not object to well- behaved individuals climbing here, but wants it known that this is located on privately owned land, that access is very much at your own risk, that permission should be sought before hand and request that you have a bit of a clean up in the area while there to help with maintenance as some locals are not so respectful and leave broken glass and other litter.

From the landowner: - "Email is the best way of contacting me due to shifts, the best days for climbing would be Friday to Monday again due to my shifts. Be aware that some locals party there so there may be broken glass and other stuff on the floor if you could bring a bin bag, pick up any mess you see and drop it off in my bins at garden cottage at the top of the steps that would help me with keeping the place clean". 

E-mail for the owner is :-rcmoyden@hotmail.co.uk

Parking and Approach

Park as for Denbigh Castle and follow wall up to a public footpath, down the stone steps, across the access track and through a kissing gate. You are now at the top of the quarry. Continue down steps to base of the quarry.

Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and very occassioaly in the Trevor Area (but birds have not nested on that section for over 10 years). The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

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