Excellent steep routes on solid, rough rock, with single and two pitch routes. Access to main crag is via a straightforward scramble to large, non-tidal sloping ledges. Access to seaward cliff is via abseil then scrambling from Craig Coetan. Pegs on routes are generally in poor condition, particularly in the Goneril area where they tend to be crucial for protection so it is worthwhile inspecting the routes before committing to a lead.
Restrictions apply from
1 March
-
1 August.
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a nest in the area of 'Morfran'. Please do not climb the following routes 1st March to 1st August; 'Sunset Rib' to 'Regan'. This is the extreme right side of the main cliff and the left side of the seaward cliff. Locals will monitor the site and restriction will be removed if birds do not nest.